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How to Buy a Used Car From a Private Seller in Las Vegas

Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace and OfferUp are full of used cars in Las Vegas, and some of them are good buys. Some are not: cars with a loan still on them, a washed title, a rolled-back odometer, or a "private seller" who is really an unlicensed dealer. Here is how to buy from a private seller safely, step by step, including the Nevada paperwork.

We are a dealership, so we have an obvious interest in where you buy. The checks below protect you wherever you buy, including from us.

Red flags before you see the car

  • The price is far below anything similar. A car priced thousands under the rest usually has a reason.
  • The seller's name isn't on the title. "I'm selling it for my cousin" is how curbstoners, unlicensed dealers posing as private sellers, operate. Buy only from the person named on the title.
  • They want a deposit before you see the car, or the car is "in storage" and will be shipped to you. That is a scam. Walk away.
  • They rush you, won't let a mechanic look at the car, or have already warmed up the engine when you arrive.
  • They won't meet in a public place or show you their ID.

Check the title

  • The name on the title matches the seller's photo ID.
  • The lienholder. If a bank or lender is listed, or the seller doesn't have the title because a lender holds it, the loan has to be paid off and the lien released before the car can be put in your name.
  • Brands. Words like Salvage, Rebuilt or Flood mean the car was badly damaged or written off. Some are fine, but they are worth much less and can be hard to insure and finance.
  • The VIN on the title matches the one on the dashboard (read it through the bottom of the windshield) and the one on the driver's door jamb.
  • The mileage on the dash makes sense next to the readings in the title and the history report.

Run the VIN

  • NICB VINCheck is free and shows whether the car has been reported stolen or declared a total loss by an insurer.
  • vehiclehistory.gov lists the approved sellers of NMVTIS reports, from the federal database of title brands and odometer readings from every state. A report costs a few dollars.
  • nhtsa.gov/recalls shows open safety recalls. Recall repairs are free at a dealer of that brand.
  • A paid Carfax or AutoCheck report adds accident and service records, when they were reported.

Have it inspected

Pay an independent mechanic to look the car over before any money changes hands. An inspection costs far less than one surprise repair. On your own test drive, start the engine cold, drive on the freeway, run the A/C at full blast for the whole drive and watch for warning lights. In a Las Vegas July you will need that A/C; see buying a used car that can handle Las Vegas heat.

Paying safely

  • Meet in daylight in a busy public place, and bring someone with you.
  • Don't carry a large amount of money. A cashier's check from your bank, or finishing the payment together inside the seller's bank, is safer for both of you.
  • Never pay a deposit to hold a car you haven't seen, and never pay with gift cards or a wire transfer.
  • Get a bill of sale signed by both of you, with the date, the price, the VIN and both names. The Nevada DMV has a standard form for it.

The Nevada paperwork

  • The title. The seller signs it over to you and writes in the odometer reading. Don't accept a title that is blank, altered or signed by someone other than the owner.
  • The plates stay with the seller in Nevada, so ask the DMV about a movement permit to drive the car legally until it is registered to you.
  • A smog check. Most cars in Clark County must pass an emissions test before they can be registered.
  • Insurance in your name, before you drive it.
  • Registration. Take the title, the bill of sale, the smog certificate and your proof of insurance to the DMV to register the car in your name.

Rules and fees change, so check the current steps with the Nevada DMV before you buy.

Private seller or dealer?

A private sale can save money, and there are no dealer fees. In exchange, you do all the checking and the paperwork yourself, and almost every private sale is as-is. At a dealer:

  • Every used car must display a Buyers Guide under the Federal Trade Commission's Used Car Rule, saying whether it comes with a warranty or is sold as-is.
  • The dealer handles the title, the registration paperwork and temporary plates.
  • You can trade in your car and finance the purchase, including with bad credit, subject to lender approval.
  • Dealer fees apply. Ours are listed on every car: $752.25 in total for documentation, title and smog.

Common questions

Can I finance a car from a private seller?

The lenders we work with finance cars bought from a dealer. For a private sale you would need a private-party loan from a bank or credit union, arranged before you meet the seller.

What if the seller still owes money on the car?

It can be done, but the loan has to be paid off first. The safest way is to meet at the seller's lender, pay the loan off directly, and get written confirmation of the payoff and of when the title will be released.

Should I sell my own car privately?

Sometimes it is worth it. See trade in or sell privately: how to decide.

Would rather skip the risk?

Every car on our lot shows its price and its dealer fees, many listings link to an AutoCheck history report, and we handle the paperwork. Browse the inventory or call (702) 471-1549. Leer en español.

This article is general information, not legal advice. Financing is subject to lender approval.

Financing subject to lender approval.

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